Sarandë greeted me with a bustle of cafés and fishing boats, the Ionian Sea sparkling beyond. But I wasn’t here for the town’s lively promenade—I craved the Riviera’s quieter stretches. I rented a battered scooter from a local named Besnik, his grin as warm as the sun. “Go south,” he said, pointing toward the mountains that cradle the coast. “That’s where the Riviera sings.” His words stuck with me as I rode toward Himarë, the road twisting through olive groves and limestone cliffs, the sea a constant companion to my left.
Along the Rugged Coast
Himarë was my first stop, a sleepy town where whitewashed houses clung to hills above a crescent beach. I parked my scooter and wandered to Livadhi Beach, a hidden cove framed by pines and boulders. The water was impossibly clear, its turquoise depths shimmering like liquid glass. I swam out, the cool sea washing away the dust of the road, and floated under a sky so blue it felt infinite. On shore, I sketched the cove in my journal, its curves mirroring the waves, and felt the Riviera’s quiet magic settle into my bones.
From Himarë, I trekked to Porto Palermo, a short hike along a rocky path where wild thyme scented the air. There, I found Ali Pasha’s Castle, a crumbling Ottoman fort perched on a peninsula, its walls kissed by the sea. The fort was empty save for the wind, which carried whispers of its history—pirates, wars, and a pasha’s ambition. I sat on a broken rampart, my boots dangling over the water, and wrote of the fort’s solitude, its stones holding stories no one tells anymore. A fisherman, Arjan, waved from his boat below, inviting me to share his lunch of grilled octopus and raki. Over the meal, he spoke of the Riviera’s past, of families who’ve fished these waters for generations, their lives woven into the tides.
Further south, I reached Qeparo, a village split between the coast and a hilltop old town. The old town’s narrow alleys, lined with stone houses and faded shutters, felt like stepping into a painting. An elderly woman, Mira, offered me coffee in her courtyard, her hands trembling as she poured. “This place is forgotten, but we stay,” she said, her eyes bright with pride. I sipped the thick, bitter brew, listening to her tales of shepherds and smugglers, and felt the Riviera’s heart—resilient, warm, unyielding.
Stories in the Waves
The Albanian Riviera is a tapestry of contrasts—rugged cliffs and soft sands, ancient ruins and living traditions. Each cove I explored, from Jale’s hidden beaches to Ksamil’s tiny islands, felt like a secret shared by the sea. Each meal—whether Arjan’s octopus or Mira’s baklava—carried the warmth of people who welcome strangers like kin. The Riviera taught me to slow down, to listen to the waves and the wind, to find beauty in places the world has overlooked.
One evening, I camped on a cliff above Dhermi, the stars bright against the Ionian’s dark expanse. My journal filled with sketches of coves and notes on the Riviera’s spirit—wild yet tender, forgotten yet alive. The sea’s rhythm lulled me to sleep, a reminder that some places don’t need crowds to shine.
A Guide to the Albanian Riviera
For those drawn to Albania’s coastal gem, here’s how to explore the Riviera:
Getting There: Fly into Tirana, then take a bus or drive to Sarandë (4-5 hours). Ferries from Corfu to Sarandë are another option (30-60 minutes). Rent a scooter or car in Sarandë for flexibility along the coast.
Best Time to Visit: May to September offers warm weather (20-30°C) and ideal swimming conditions. June and September are quieter; July-August is busier but vibrant.
What to Pack: Lightweight clothing, sturdy sandals or hiking shoes, swimwear, sunscreen, and a reusable water bottle. Bring a journal or camera for the scenery. A light jacket is useful for cooler evenings.
Must-Do Experiences:
Himarë and Livadhi Beach: Swim in turquoise waters and relax in this quiet town. Hike to nearby Gjipe Beach for a secluded cove.
Porto Palermo and Ali Pasha’s Castle: Explore the fort and picnic by the sea. Kayak rentals are available for coastal views.
Qeparo Old Town: Wander the hilltop village for history and views. Stay in a guesthouse for local meals.
Ksamil Islands: Take a boat or swim to these tiny islets for crystal waters. Book early for boat tours in peak season.
Travel Tips:
Transport: Coastal roads are winding but scenic. Scooters (€15-25/day) are great for short trips; cars are better for longer stretches. Buses connect major towns like Himarë and Sarandë.
Safety: Stick to marked paths for hikes—cliffs can be unstable. Swim in designated areas to avoid currents. Carry cash (ALL)—cards are rarely accepted outside Sarandë.
Budget: Expect €30-70/day for guesthouses, meals, and transport. Guesthouses start at €10-20/night; seafood meals cost €5-15.
Where to Eat: In Himarë, try Taverna e Vjeter for grilled fish and raki. In Qeparo, Guesthouse Vila Qeparo serves homemade baklava and fërgesë. Stock snacks for remote beaches.
Cultural Etiquette: Greet with “Përshëndetje” and a smile. Dress modestly in villages (cover shoulders, knees). Ask permission before photographing locals, especially elders like Mira.
Respect the Land: Don’t litter on beaches or disturb ruins. Support local businesses to preserve the Riviera’s charm.
